![]() Plastic Kits, Military & Aviation Books and Magazines Bought & Sold. Search: Manufacturer. Our Recreation program includes Yosemite tours and planning advice that are your backstage pass to famous Yosemite icons as well as its hidden wonders. Service 4wd - C0. Chevrolet Silverado & GMC Sierra 1. Although the following is NOT from actual experience, here is a rough guide of what the job entails after you raise and safely support the Tahoe with jackstands and remove the transfer case shield, if you have one: First task is to remove the front driveshaft. You'll need special boot clamp pliers to reinstall the boot. There may be two clamps on the boot to crimp. To get them off, you'll need a thin flat bladed screwdriver to pry. Remove the double clamped boot clamps at the transfer case side first, but when it comes to actually removing the driveshaft itself, drop it at the front axle yoke side first. If a single clamp boot, then you can disconnect it from the groove on the transfer case output shaft once the front drive axle shaft end is partially lowered, as you are pulling the splined shaft out of the case. BE SURE AND MARK THE POSITION OF THE DRIVE SHAFT relative to the transfer case output shaft as well as the front axle pinion yoke. Kind of important, these marks, so that you'll be able to reinstall the shaft correctly, in phase, and so that whatever engagement mojo that is in the front axle is clocked correctly with whatever shift mojo is in the transfercase. When pulling out this driveshaft, resist the temptation to pound on the yoke ears, and resist the temptation to pry between the yoke and the universal joint, to keep from creating hairline fractures at the injection joints that would lead to a more spectacular driveline failure down the road. Later on, after you're done with all the other work that is in store for you on the encoder motor, you will want to have NEW clamps, a clamp installation tool (google J- 4. GM's looks like), and output shaft lubricant for the splines that meets GM specification 9. Now you can remove the encoder motor assembly. There are two electrical connectors to unplug: 1. The Transfer Case Switch connector, and 2. The Encoder Motor connector. You'll need flexible arms and a small flat bladed screwdriver to release the retention tang of the connector. There is a lot of heat down there, so these plastic connectors can become quite brittle. It is easy to break the retention tangs, so care is required. Now, just 3 bolts and the encoder motor is free. Here is where it gets sticky.. I think the encoder motor is like a clock.. This indexing aspect is important enough that were you to replace the encoder motor, you would have to first manually shift the transfer case into NEUTRAL.. Of course, then you would need the experience to know what exactly is neutral on the transfer case, without benefit of indicator lights to tell you. I don't have this experience. But since you are not replacing the encoder motor, then you may not have to shift the transfer case in this manner, as long as you don't rotate any rotatable parts that are exposed once you remove the encoder motor. Again, I haven't seen what is exposed myself, but have a strong premonition that if anything is movable inside a hole in the encoder motor, it shouldn't be moved carelessly. Kind of like moving the hands of a delicate clock the wrong way. But that is just a premonition. There are timing marks inside the encoder motor that index and align the gears, if that gives you an idea. ![]() There is an actuator insulator gasket that becomes exposed once you pull the encoder motor, and that is supposed to be replaced with a new one anytime the encoder motor is removed. Speaking of more parts that are supposed to be replaced, once you have the encoder motor safely on your work bench ready for surgery, there are 4 screws you will need to remove.. All 4 of these screws are to be discarded and replaced with new ones. Once you remove the encoder motor cover, there is an orange rubber seal inside the cover that is also to be discarded and replaced with a new one. The shim on the output gear can be saved and reused. I'm sorry, but I don't have any part numbers for the orange seal, the 4 screws, the actuator mating seal, or the new boot clamps that you'll need to correctly do this job right. I do have a strong suspicion that my dealer did NOT correctly do the job right, as my repair order only shows 1 part, the sensor itself, and doesn't show ANY of these other parts that needed to be discarded and replaced with new ones. ![]() ![]() ![]() Short cuts seem to be the norm at most dealerships. Finally, the operation can begin. Remove the output gear. Disconnect the wire harness that tethers the encoder. Remove the encoder from the output shaft. Tada, you've got to your donut.. Now toss it and plug the NEW encoder sensor that you bought into the wire harness. There is a legend that says . Everything is clocked, indexed, as that is what this group of parts does.. After seating the encoder onto the output gear, place the assembly back into the casting. There is a slot for the grommet harness in the casting, and the flat area of the grommet should face up. Now is the time to make sure the timing is right. ![]() ![]()
Align the casting and output gear timing marks at the same time you align the two encoder phasing posts, while inserting the shaft into the bushing and verifying that the output gear and the idler gear are engaged properly. Seat the wire harness into the channel, and put the shim you took off earlier back on to the output shaft gear. Win BIG with Tower Hobbies’ Monthly Drawing! Looking for a chance to win a FREE $150 Tower Hobbies Gift Certificate? Seize every opportunity with Tower Hobbies. 1LT McCants; AARP-TaxAide Sierra Vista; American Association for Runic Studies; AZ Workforce; BAYADA Home Health Care; Bisbee Vogue, Inc. Bolt Multisport. Put in your NEW orange gasket, and install your NEW screws, torquing the two short ones to 1. INCH lbs., and the two longer ones to 2. INCH lbs. Reinstall the encoder motor reusing the same 3 bolts, and connect the two wire harnesses you unplugged earlier. If you have a double clamp boot, install your NEW clamps onto the grooves of the prop shaft boot before you place the prop shaft into the splines of the transfer case output shaft. If you have a single clamp boot, you'll do the same thing without the first clamp. Remember to align the shaft with the reference marks you made prior to removal. After the spines are slid into the transfer case, line up the front end of the shaft with the front axle yoke and install the yoke retainers. Moving back to the transfer case, for both styles of boots, stretch the boot onto the transfer case output shaft until the boot snaps into the groove. Crimp your clamp(s) to 1. Resist rotating the driveshaft at this point. There is no solid fact behind that caution, other than the clocking mojo that is inside the encoder and front drive line actuators. My code CO3. 27 appeared soon after I hand rotated my driveshaft during an oil change, trying to see if the front driveshaft was made in China, like the rear driveshaft was. I have no way of knowing for sure if this hand rotation set the stage for having to replace the encoder sensor or not, but I'm not willing to find out by doing it again either. Folks that have any other transfer case (2. HD, 2. 61, 2. 61. HD, 2. 61. SHD) other than the Auto. Trak 2. 46 may not have this issue. We may not have this issue either. But why tempt fate? Reinstall your transfer case shield, if you have one. Pray. PS.. You did remember to take pics for us during this entire process, didn't you?
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